Self-Portrait Finished

This is pretty much where I left off in the last post - gently building up the tonal areas to create the effect of bright sunlight on the face...

I'm using a black Bic Biro pen for this portrait, and it can work much in the same way as a pencil: you can alter the darkness of the pen lines by applying a range of pressures to the pen as you draw and you can build up subtle shading by using layers of cross-hatched lines. It's this technique I'm using to create the effect of solid form, both in the face and the crash helmet.

With the slight hint of the right side of the face drawn in so that the face looks washed with light , I move on to the hair. The hair is blonde and in the sunlight this makes it look white, so I need to use the whiteness of the paper to get the lightest possible effect.

To do this I pencil in the white lines for the hair and then work around these pencil lines gently with the pen to build up the dark behind them. When I've got the effect I want I rub out the pencil lines and the whiteness of the hair stands out. This is also helped by framing the face with the black of the helmet.

The fabric of the liner of the helmet is created using the same technique as that used to create the face; gently applied lines of pen one on top of the other as well as applying extra pressure in the ares of shadow. On the other side of the helmet the shadow is more intense.

The trick now is to make the rest of the drawing look like different materials to the face, by that I mean the plastic visor, the fabric of the liner, the hard, dark plastic of the crash helmet, all with the same pen. To do this I pay real attention to the lines of reflection on the plastic as well as how the light is absorbed to a certain extent by the other plastic around the helmet.

Although the original sketch shows the whole of the crash helmet, as I work through the drawing I realize to illustrate the whole crash helmet would overpower the portrait, so I make the decision to show just the nearest outline to the face, to frame the face and keep the face as the focal point.

And that's it, the finished portrait, a true likeness using just a Biro pen for the whole drawing, combining my two passions; art and motorcycles!

Self Portrait

It's about time I did a self-portrait, but rather than the usual style I've decided to do mine also portraying my other passion in life - motorcycling. So I'm doing a portrait of me in my crash helmet!

As with the other portraits I start with a pencil outline. This is done on a sheet of A3 cartridge paper with a mechanical pencil which has an HB 0.5 lead.

Once the pencil outline is correct I switch to a Bic Biro pen, this one has black ink. This is quite scary, as there's no room for error when drawing with ink; unlike pencil I can't erase the mistakes. But I draw with a Biro pen everyday in my sketchbooks when I'm sculpting and I'm actually a little more comfortable with it than with a pencil. So here goes!

I always start with the eyes and I start with the darkest part of the eye, the pupil, and work outwards from there. One side of the face is in sunlight (notice the line down the nose denoting the change from light to shadow) and the eyes are squinting from both the sun and smiling, so there's not much light getting into the eyes. So the eyes are quite dark and they'll be part of the darkest areas of the whole portrait. The shadows in the nostrils are also just as dark, so I put those in too, to help me balance out the dark areas.

I start shading in the side of the face that is naturally in shadow so that I can build up the gradual layers of tone to create the three-dimensional effect. I don't tend to work in just one area and move outwards; I tend to hop around from area to area, building them up systematically as I go. This works for me, but it's just personal choice.

As I hop around the drawing I try and link the areas as quickly as possible, so that one section doesn't get overworked, making the whole picture too dark. It also helps me keep the features in proportion to each other by stepping back and checking it regularly and that helps to prevent any distortion by concentrating too much on one spot.

I'm using a cross-hatching technique, much in the same way as a pencil. I can apply a range of pressures to the pen from a light to heavy line as I put it onto the paper and this can create the same tonal effect as a pencil. With practice it's quite easily to shade with a Biro pen, but it needs confidence as one mistake can ruin the whole sketch!

It's the same process as creating Carl's portrait in the previous blog post, but the effect can be a lot bolder and I think it'll work well with the black plastic of the crash helmet. We'll see!

Carl's Portrait.

Started work on a portrait of Carl - a lovely guy who does re-enactment, and as it's such a big part of his life it seems only fitting his portrait should reflect his passion, so I'm sketching him in costume.

It starts with a rough outline to get the size of the head and the features in the right place.

With the outline done, as always, I start with the eyes. I'm drawing on a flat white cartridge paper, there's no texture to the paper, and I'm using a mechanical pencil with a HB lead.

The reference image I'm using for the portrait was taken in bright sunshine, and Carl's smiling, so the light and his facial expression makes his eyes seem smaller than if his face was relaxed and in softer light. This bright lighting is going to be a challenge!

Even with the eyes smaller I still need to capture the intensity in his facial expression, so I start right in the middle of the eye. The pupil is going to be the darkest part, but it needs a spot of reflection, a highlight, otherwise the eyes will look flat.

With the darkest part down, I start building up the tonal detail around the eye. The nose guard of the helmet is casting a shadow over the other eye, and blocking out any highlights within the iris and pupil, so this is going to be tricky not to make the eye look flat and lifeless.

I'm using the pencil to make soft cross-hatching marks that blend into each other and I'm building up layers of darker pencil to suggest the 3-dimensional form of the eyes. As I work, I sketch on both eyes, building up each a little at a time so that the tonal qualities work together.

The bright sunlight is on the right side of the face as we're looking at it, and at this stage I'm think of leaving the paper completely white to show the brightness.

So I'm just slowly mapping the tonal changes on the face as it transitions from shade to sunlight. I'm not worried about the range of tonal depth, just mapping the shapes out loosely.

I'm not decided yet, but I'm thinking of making the details around the edge of the face a little out of focus, or more sketchy, so there's more emphasis on the main part of the face.

But it's early days yet, I still have an enormous amount of work to do, and the feel of the portrait may change as work progresses. It's certainly going to be a challenge though!

Talk like a pirate....

My fingers are all healed and I'm back working, sculpting and sketching away! So hopefully now I'll get back on track with this blog, healed fingers crossed.

Amongst my travels and activities during these few months I've joined a re-enactment group and plan to be a historical pirate! So there will probably be a lot of historical influences showing through in my sketches, and I have no doubt that will also influence my sculpting. First up is a portrait of one of the group's established re-enactment pirate characters 'Pete'. This portrait is taken from a photo so the first thing I did was ask permission to use the photo. That granted, off I went.

I measured the features from the photo and sketched them out at the same size on the blank paper. Again I'm using a Strathmore Drawing pad, with a medium surface and medium weight, a mechanical pencil with a HB 0.5mm lead and a small Crimson & Blake putty rubber, with lastly, a sheet of plain A4 paper to lay over the drawing as I sketch so that I don't smudge the graphite already laid down.

I always start with the eyes, to me the most important part of the portrait, if these don't look right back out at us then the portrait won't work. And I'll return to them constantly, as I build up the shading. I start with the darkest shade of the pupils and plot the highlights in the eyes and then work up the tones around them. I build up the shading gently around the eyes because there is a lot of detail in this small area and I want to capture as much of this detail as possible.

 

Looking at the photo I'm trying to plot out the areas of dark and light. This will give me the overall form of the face and make the face look more three-dimensional. The lightest point is the tip of the nose and the front tip of the tricorn hat, but the light is reflecting more off the nose so this will mean I leave the paper white and lightly shade in the highlight on the tricorn hat. I also think about the composition of the sketch, and I may push things into the background by making them darker if it suits the composition better.

I realise I have a habit of working from left to right in pretty much all of the portraits I do, not sure what that means, I just happened to notice it. Anyway, to build up the shading I'm using hatching and  cross-hatching lines, both in larger sweeping motions and small controlled strokes. You can see this most clearly around the edge of the hat and face. I'm not blending the lines on the face to make the shading smoother because I want the skin to look slightly rougher, he's an older man (not that old, but older than me!) and he's portraying a pirate so I want some roughness to the portrait. 

A truly amazing artist that uses lines to build up fantastic drawings is Laurie Lipton - to borrow a quote from her website by 'Artweek' magazine “Technically Lipton is a profound draftsman. She captures nuances of light and shade with masterful proficiency.” The size of the image files means they take a while to load, but I promise you it's worth the wait.

I've made the decision to concentrate solely on the face and not add in any detail of the surrounding environment; there's enough expression in the face to hold our interest without adding further information into the sketch. This is also greatly helped by choosing a good photo and having a good photographer who knows how to capture the moment. To emphasise the features and expression of the face at this stage I'll make the shading around the face very dark. It will help give the face more form, push it forward to become the focus and give a little more drama. I'm framing the face with a dark surround but I still have to watch that the overall tones so as not to flatten the form of the face. I'm starting to put in the detail on the chin. This is tricky because there is a lot of dimpling and texture but I still want the focus on the eyes, so I work the two parts of the sketch simultaneously.

The detail is there but it's a little too dark....

 

...but with a careful  application of the putty rubber I lighten the area until it fits in with the tonal plan of the sketch. With the hat and pipe left to complete I choose to loosen up on the sketch, adding in the shading but not to the same level of detail as the face. I want the face to really push forward in the overall drawing....

 

And that's it, completed! I think it's a good likeness, an interesting drawing, with just the right balance of detail and loose sketching and a good portrayal of an 'historical' pirate. Arrr!

Mastering Left-handed Sketching!

Well 'mastering' may be too strong a word but I have managed to finish my first sketch done with my left-hand. Having injured my right I'm endeavoring to continue my quest to sketch daily, now with my left hand, although admittedly at the moment it's more like once or twice a week! Not deterred by this, today I finished the left-handed sketch of one of the gargoyles from Merton College in Oxford. I've been using my favoured mechanical pencil and my Strathmore medium surface sketchpad.

 

Taking another look at the sketch I realised that the tonal values were not broad enough, I needed to have more tonal values and a greater distinction between the lights and darks. To do this I went back over some of the areas I'd already shaded and darkened some and then used the small eraser on the end of the mechanical pencil to gently lift off some of the lead in the lighter areas. Usually I would use a putty or kneadable eraser to do this but the mechanical pencil is all I have to hand and to be honest, it does an okay job given that my left-handed sketching is no Rembrandt!.

So hopefully you can see the difference in the tonal values between the two images. I think it makes the form look more solid. I'm still having to turn the sketchpad regularly to be able to shade at a more comfortable angle but I'm noticing that I have a little more control over the fluidity of my wrist movements so I'm not turning the pad as much as yesterday. Another noticeable difference in the sketch itself to those done with my right hand is the pencil marks are more visible; by that I mean the blending is rougher and so you can see the individual marks that make up the shading more easily.

 

I'm leaving the sketch as it is at this stage, I think to sketch in the hood would lose the form of the face as the tonal values are way too similar. It could be that my brain and my left hand are a lazy and easily bored combination and I want to go onto a new subject! On the whole I'm very happy with the results and well on my way to mastery!

Fantasy Head - Skull with Horns - Finished!

Finally, today I got back to the fantasy drawing I've been working on for a while. I've been letting the sketch take me along with it rather than carefully planning out the whole concept before I started. So today I decided at the last minute what exactly would go in the skull's mouth.

First I had to finish around the mouth, this is where I left off last time...

 

Blending the new pen lines in to the old part of the sketch can be a challenge; applying too much pen will change the overall tones of the drawing, so I apply the pen very lightly, allowing me to carefully build up a shade to match the pen already laid down days ago.

 

With the white of the paper showing through in the mouth you can see just how dark the whole image is, which is the effect I wanted, the use of extreme light and dark (chiaroscuro) to create a dramatic form. The writing inside the mouth had been to put a reptile inside the open jaws but I couldn't think how to update this much-used image so I chose another creature...

... a rat. I still wanted to make a reference to something sometimes considered creepy or repugnant, to keep the imagery dark or sinister. The challenge is to create a visible image whilst still maintaining the correct shade values, the rat would be in deep shadow but still needed to be seen.

By creating the deep dark shadow in the mouth surrounding the rat I'm able to determine the shade values of the fur so that the rat is withdrawn from the light but still visible. I decided to leave a sharp highlight in the eyes, I'm sure the focus of the picture will be divided between the skull and the rat in the balance that I'm after.

 

I think the rat head looks good but it's still a little bright and so the focus shifts onto it too easily, it's distracting. It's at this stage I realise I've forgotten the shading in the left cheekbone, doh!

So having shaded in the cheekbone and darkening the rat's head but leaving his eyes sharp with a bright highlight I think I've got the balance right. I'm happy with how the whole image works and I've finally finished!

Fantasy Head - Skull with Horns Part 3

Today I was back sketching on the fantasy head I started almost a week ago. I sketched the head's outline with a mechanical pencil using a 0.5mm lead on a Strathmore Drawing pad with a medium surface. I then started to fill in the shading to create a three-dimensional image using a black Biro pen.

I've been sketching this image without any definite plan, just going with the flow up until now but I had decided I wanted the image to use chiaroscuro - the dramatic use of light and dark to create the perception of solid form, so the darkness of the black pen seemed ideal. You can see as well that I've been playing with the idea of something being inside the skull's open mouth; I often make notes on my drawings so that I can remember the ideas I've had.

I'll need to fill in the background to create the sense of darkness to offset the light hitting the head. And there's a lot of background! If I use anything other than the same pen I think it will look odd so I'll have to persevere. I could add some faint detail to break the background up but I think I'm going to keep it simple.

The texture of the horns has to look different from the texture of the skull, so I make different marks with the pen, more scoring than gentle shading, although when I have built up the detail I do go over the whole horn lightly with the pen to reinforce the form with shading.

Most of the detail is built up with hatching and cross-hatching pen lines, often then blended to hide those lines but at this stage the hatching lines are clearly visible. I'm also laying a sheet of paper over the sketch, only revealing the section I'm working on so that I don't smudge the pen's ink and ruin all that work!

The form is really starting to come out from the paper now. I may make the shadows darker, I'm not sure yet. My plan now is to complete the detail over all the paper and then see how the shading values play out together before I start darkening any of the drawing I've already done.

 

So I'm going to complete the other side of the head and the other horn and then I will fill in the detail in the mouth. I'm doing it in this order because I'm still not sure about what will go inside the mouth so it'll give me a little more time to decide. There's so much more to do but it'll have to wait til another day!

Fantasy Head - Skull with Horns Part 2

It's been a few days since I've been able to pick up my sketchbook and any kind of drawing implement but thankfully I was able to get back to the fantasy head I previously started. I never really had a plan for this drawing, I just wanted to sketch and let the ideas flow.

I decided to break up the symmetry of the image and sketch a shorter horn on the left. I also wanted the horn to twist at a different angle making it look more natural. I've been sketching the image with a mechanical pencil, laying a sheet of paper over the sketch so as not to smudge it.

I like the asymmetry of the horns and it doesn't detract from the overall image, I think it strengthens it by adding more interest. The head does look a little 'empty' though, I think it needs some eyes to give it more character.

 

I'm not worried about the anatomical accuracy, the fact that the eyeballs are floating in the sockets, it's the imagination behind the image that's important to me. I am aware that the eyes do need to look like they belong to the skull though, that it can actually see, rather than it looking as if the eyeballs have just been placed into the skull.

I'm not sure about the development of the teeth, but at this stage I'm going to leave them as they are now and come back to them later and decide then.

From the outset I've seen this head in my mind's eye in a very dark setting with a strong light, probably influenced completely by my love of chiaroscuro - the strong contrast between light and dark creating a strong sense of three-dimensional form and drama. I love the eyeball - it looks really solid, like you could pick it up with your fingers!

 

Using a black Biro pen I create hatching and cross-hatching lines with a light touch on the paper where the light hits and building darker and darker layers of lines where the shadows are deepest. The white of the paper is left bare where the light is strongest.

I still haven't finished sketching the details on this image, I'm still deciding what will fill the open mouth, but the shading I've added has no impact on that part of the sketch. There's a lot of work still to go into this drawing but time's not being kind to me at the moment! I shall return to it another day.